Sunday, February 21, 2010

lisboa friday part 2: Belem

When the train finally did come, it was only a 7-minute trip to my stop, Belem. When I got out, I figured out which way I needed to go by looking at my map. I wanted to go to the Monasterio de los Jeronimos and the Torre de Belem. I thought I could see the tower and based on the map knew the monastery came first. Great, I must be REALLY close!
I started walking across a nice park and saw a big pink building. I thought that was it, but it turned out to be a museum of where the president lives or something.
I had to go through a little strip of stores to get to the next big building. I got to an information booth and double-checked that I had indeed found the monastery. Yes. I turned straight around and went back to MacDonald’s, which I’d noted when I passed it, to get a soda because I KNEW they’d break my 50. MacDonald’s was PACKED but they didn’t mind me just having a soda or my 50 (which so many people frown at. Why do they even make them?!).
















I then went back to the monastery. It’s in the Manueline architectural style, which is Portugal’s own. It’s a 16th century building, and a UNESCO World Heritage site. I went in and decided it might be my new favorite church. It had neat Gothic arches. It was dark and felt supreme.
















On either side when you first enter are tombs. One is a famous poet and the other was an explorer. Then there are arches that led out to the main room, which was really impressive. It had decorative ropes draped over the ceiling that really emphasized the architecture of the arches at the top. It had big stained glass windows and antoher tomb at the front. This one had a whole family of urns. The main alter had sectioned paintings. They were really well set-off by the light color of the building material of the church. At the side, there were a couple of gold-encrusted chapels.






























After that, I decided to go to the cloister and museum. I almost like the cloister better in some churches and this was one of them. The cloister was astonishing. It’s two levels of beautifully carved arches that all overlook a square of grass with a fountain in the middle. Each arch has its own design. From what I could see none of them were quite the same as the others, but they were all very intricate and intriguing. Around the top were scenes and animal-shaped downspouts.





























There were a few things off the sides—a chapel? Confessionals, and a museum. The museum was overly detailed. No one can really spend long enough to compare each step of the building of the monastery to the history of the world. I can’t imagine how long it took them to do the research to create that exhibit.


















Then I went up to the second floor and back into the church. There was a door onto the second floor overlooking the first floor, but with a new perspective on the arches and such.


















Then back out into the cloister. I tend to take LOADS of pictures of things that I like.























From there I went BACK to MacDonald’s. This time I got a sundae. I’d seen the picture on my first visit and was getting slightly hungry. I got it smothered in carmel, no nuts, thank you.














Then I walked through a park and under the street. As I said before, I thought the tower was close. Once I figured out how to cross under the road and railroad tracks, I found out that what I’d seen was the Monumento a los Descubrimientos, which was built in 1960 to commemorate the death of Prince Henry the Navigator, who promoted discoveries. That’s wonderful, but it’s not what I’m looking for!


















The monument and the tower were both next to the river. A bit further upstream, I spotted a copy of THE GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE, OUR BRIDGE! It had all of the distinguishing features—Xs between the tall beams, straight cables down from the main loopy ones, the color red. I was a bit upset. Seeing this twin of my bridge made me miss the real thing (and all of the people near it!).
The man at the monastery had told me it was a 20 minute walk, so I realized I needed to book it if I was going to make it on time to be let in to use the ticket I’d already purchased (combo!).
I did finally reach the tower. It’s a boot-shaped military tower in the Manueline architectural style. It’s also from the 16th century and also a UNESCO site. Top 10 says that it has proportions to please. I still think the boot is funky.














I showed my ticket and went up the first set of stairs to the foot part of the boot (as opposed to the part your leg would go in). It was like a big deck or patio. It had a hole in the center and mini towers around the edges. I couldn’t help but keep looking back in toward town at the fake GGB!






















I wandered up the 5? Stories of the leg section of the boot. I stopped in each one and looked out of all of its windows. One had a plaque about a rhinoceros that was given as a gift. It was brought over from Africa? But the boat it was on sank. The rhino was supposably “retrieved” and stuffed with straw. It was still given as a present to a religious official.


















The stairs up and down the boot were narrow spirals. There was only one set for going up and down. I was in a little bit of shock that it was unmonitored. Tourists were trusted to get by each other and maintain peace without a guard? Crazy!
In the basement, there was a place that they kept political prisoners when Spain and Portugal were one country. There’s a sign that tells you to mind your head. I think it should have said welcome to the playhouse. The door didn’t even come up to my shoulder!














Then I walked around the side of the boot to take some pictures of the whole thing. The sun had been poorly placed for photos on the way in.














I took some pics with the wanna be Golden Gate Bridge on the way back. A French family asked me to take their picture too. For some reason, I was first asked if I spoke French. I said no. I felt odd about that. Well, I sort of do…

















All day, my camera’s battery had threatened to die, but it didn’t! I figured in at least one of my destinations pictures wouldn’t be allowed, but I was wrong!! I predict that one day, they’ll tell you in guidebooks whether or not you’re allowed to take pictures in places.
On the way back, I took tram 15 instead of train 2. What a mistake! I should have known that the of cars makes a difference. If there are 6? Train cars and all of those people have to cram into 2 bus cars, it’s not going to be cozy! I was SQUISHED! I got off and took the metro back to the hostel. I got off at the same time as a couple staying in the hostel that I’d left in the morning at the same time as.
I traded some of my stuff around and then tried to go to a new area for dinner. It looked like the shopping or commercial area and like it also had some cultural stuff, like the national theater. Great! I totally failed. I ended up on a hill overlooking the city. I’d figured that I could just walk back to my usual square—go in that direction and I’d be ok. Nope.
















I walked back and took the metro one stop. I wnet to MacDonald’s for the third time that day.
Then I went in search of Starbucks so I could do some uploading. It was up a side street. I saw it’s sign and thought, ahhhh, a beacon of light! It was inside a skinny posh mall. They had no wifi. Upstairs, there was a sign for wifi, but no one could tell me how it worked. The sent me to the information desk two floors below. There was no one there. I waited. The girl said I had to go somewhere else to buy a card and then I could use it here (they USED to sell them). She suggested I could get a drink at the hotel next door and use their wifi. Well, their door was locked and I couldn’t see a bar.
I took some photos of the signs on the metro. I thought they were funny.
















I stopped in a little shop to get a water on the way back to the hostel. The man inside is nice and recognized me. He greeted me in English. Back inside, I went online in the communal computer in the closet for hours. Then I went to my room. I’m still leaking confetti from the parade! My room had an extra-extra blanket and my toothbrush had been put into a cup. Its door wasn’t locked. You have to have the key to open it, but what’s the lock there for if not to be used?
After a while, I uploaded my pics to my comp and found out that there was a wifi connection called Residencial Roxi, uhhh that’s my hostal. REALLY?! They HAVE WIFI?! My outrage could have been avoided? I assumed that because they had a communal computer they didn’t have access individually. I should have thought the opposite. Access means more access! I was slightly worried about asking and having them not have it and knowing I had a laptop due to the notice on the door that reads: “we are only responsible for the values in our coffers.” One good thing about the closet computer—the closet is warmer than my room, by far!
I realized I may have done myself a disservice by becoming such an efficient traveler. I can’t spend loads of time in places and maybe miss out on some of the atmosphere. Also, I know what I like and I know what I’ll think is… eh? The rest of the Lisbon sights only looked semi-interesting, but that’s no longer enough. Tomorrow I’m going to Sintra. I already did the research. Sorry, Lisbon.

1 comment:

  1. Can't wait to see the pictures of your new maybe favorite cathedral

    ReplyDelete