Carnivale in Cordoba (Sunday)

I woke up unhappy. I was suddenly painfully aware that my job prospects were not looking good and I was a long way from home. I hadn’t even heard from my most promising one in Japan in almost a week. I kept playing the saying over in my head: no news is good news. Or is it bad news? I couldn’t remember!! It frusterated me. I was also disappointed that ILA Vietnam, which TEFL Barcelona had recommended for me, had never even replied to my application! I may send her an email.
I packed and headed out to find a taxi.
The first one I saw rolled down the window and asked me where I was going. When I said the estacio de train he drove away, motioning too much traffic. The second taxi pulled over and stopped when I said where I was going. He even put my suitcase in the trunk, but when I wouldn’t put my backpack there, he took the suitcase out and drove off in a huff. The THIRD taxi took me to the train station seamlessly. He even went fast in the taxi/bus lane.
It was a short train ride and I almost wished it was longer. I was happy reading my book and swaying with the lull of the train. When I arrived, I had a jamon sandwich for my lunch. It was literally a piece of baguette with ham… and a coca zero.
Then I bought my ticket to Madrid, got a map, and looked for the bus. I found the one I needed and got on. I was glad to see a digital screen that said the stop names. I got off at Diario Cordoba, as my directions had said. From there my directions were ambiguous: cross the street, it’s on the left. Well, cross WHICH street? There were 2 in front of me, which meant there were 3 streets it could be on the left OF. Fortunately, I also had the address and found the hostal (in Espanish). Then I pressed the buzzer button. A Spanish lady’s voice greeted me with a long bit of words. Umm hi? Reservation? Reservado? Blahblahblah. Blah blah? Hostal? Reservation? Blah blah blah blah blah…. Nothing more. I waited a bit and pressed the button again. Hello? She told me to wait. OK. Well as far as I’d heard, there was no sign she was actually going to open the door originally!
When I went in, we established who I was and the maid (as it turned out to be) showed me my room. She was going on and on about nueve. Ok, 9. What do you want me to do at 9? She wanted my passport. I figured there was no use arguing. She had more to say, but I have no clue what about. She kept repeating the same stuff. I can recognize that these are words I’ve already heard, but that doesn’t help me understand them. I left my stuff and took what I needed. I found the maid and tried to ask where on the map we were. She refused to even look at it. I said Aqui and pointed at the floor and donde and pointed at the map. That’s about as far as my Espagnish goes! I had tried looking at all of the little squares’ names and still couldn’t locate myself. I was supposed to be near one. I went left and found a HUGE square then went back right up the hill. There were 2 other girls with a map speaking English so I got them to show me where we were. Ooooh, that GIANT square on the map is the one down the road and these Roman columns ahead of us are… these Roman columns on the map! It didn’t occur to me that this was another tiny place represented by a big map. Things are easier than they seem more often than not, if someone could give me a tiny hint! I feel like every other day I think I’ve met THE most unhelpful person of my life.
Sidenote: I am now in Andalucia instead of Catalonia. They don’t all have a lisp here.
I went to see the cathedral, la Mezquita. On my way, I found Taylor Swift lying in the street. She was printed on a little Spanish valentine. I picked her up, not minding that whoever gave me the valentine didn't know it.













I had to go through la Juderia (Jewish quarter) to get there. Seems every city has a Jewish or Arab quarter with tiny streets overlooking something important. Cordoba was the same. It had tiny little streets. I relied heavily on my map, but also could see a grand tower in the distance. I have a feeling that was a beacon to follow.



















I was right. That big old tower had an arch through it that led on into the orange courtyard in front of the cathedral. Naturally I had to have several photos before I could follow my line of vision.

















I did finally go through the arch. There was a nice courtyard, made even nicer by the shining sun and blue sky. I feel like lots of my days here have looked a bit dreary. There were loads of orange trees in nice columns, but excuse me? Where are the oranges?
















I bought my ticket and received a brochure. The construction of the Cathedral began in 785. Worshippers washed in the fountain in the orange grove. looked around for other photo opportunities before entering the building. There are more than 1000 columns holding up the arches inside. The columns are made of marble, jasper and onyx and the red and white arches are alternating colors of stone. The mihrab, prayer niche, in the building points south instead of east toward Mecca, oddly (apparently). In 1523, Charles V installed a cathedral in the center of the mosque. Later he admitted that that detracted from the mosque. I really liked the ancient tropical feel of it and wanted to have my fun in it while it was sunny and nice (not that I was eagerly taking off my coat or anything).



















I went toward the gate and saw that there were TWO tour groups waiting to get in. Huuuh, no thanks! I went back toward the center walkway, thinking I'd take a picture of myself and the tower. I got to my desired spot and started to turn my back to the tower so we'd both be facing my camera and got a total surprise. About 30 Japanese tourists were hiding in the archway directly in front of me, all with their cameras pointed toward the tower (and now me, since I'd accidentally put myself in the spotlight). I turned and went back to the door. I wasn't going to wait long enough to be behind THREE tour groups!
Inside, there are really beautiful arches with candy canes stripes. It's like the churhc of candy canes!! The arches are lined up so that they nest in each other as you look at them down a line, like the pieces of a Babushka. They also fit together diagonally when you stand in the right place. That was my favorite view. I took several pictures and then there was a stream of Japanese tourists in my photos. Guess I'll look at something else and come back (although I ended up looking from other corners rather than returning-- the entrance is the prime place to have people walking in your photos. My policy is turn around and smile or get out of my photo!). Also, my camera is starting to get fussy. It doesn't always want to take a picture when I want it to. It just can't be bothered. I sometimes have to press the shutter about 3 times before it will cooperate. It also sometimes comes out blurry when it has no reason to. Overall, I think it still does ok, or maybe it's just that I have exceptional subjects.



















I continued around the edge of the cathedral, looking at the altars on the side and the mini-museum of arches and domes and doors around the edge (and of course, always looking at the columns).





















I think this is the mihrab which should point to Mecca and the amazing dome above it.












Then I went into the Chapel of Saint Theresa and the "Treasure." It was amazing, of course. That's pretty much what they mean when they say treasure.
















Then I got sent out the other side. I looked at some other side altars and then headed for the main chapel.






















Then, clearly, I had to admire the columns a bit more. I know this is too many pictures of the same thing, but I can't help myself. I REALLY thought this was cool.




















Here's a cool stained glass window right next to the door (don't worry, we're leaving!)















I did get a pic of me with the tower...and the thing on the other side.















Then I hit the street. I was looking for Calleja de Flores. It's a cul-de-sac that perfectly frames the tower (or so I'd read).

















Then I wandered a bit, thinking I'd either find the 14th century city gate or see the river, then do the other one. I ended up going by the end of the Cathedral walls and down to the river.

















There's a big bulky bridge that crosses the river with a fortress-y building on the other side.













I could see another bridge a little further upstream so I decided to go back on it. On my walk, I spotted a crowd of people in costume. I knew Carnaval was starting soon and thought maybe this was part of the festivites. I'm not going to lie about it. I followed them.















They led me straight back to my own square. I had a feeling they might. It seemed like the biggests, centralest possible location for festivities.














I decided to plug my camera in to charge on my way by my room. On my way up the stairs, I got hola'ed into the office. New people were there and they wanted money (in exchange for my passport). I paid and then a cute little girl came out while they searched for change for my 50. She said que pasa? and giggled. I just smiled at her for lack of knowing a response. She was probably under 7. Then I went up to my room. While I was there, I saw people in costume headed for the square.










I stopped in the tourism officina to ask about what the event was and what time it started. The lady told me 6, and (abruptly) that she couldn't explain it in English, the start of Carnavale. Well you could try! I'm a dumb tourist and I'd believe anything you told me! I have no clue!
I went to Cafe and Te to have dinner. I'd eyed it in various cities, noting that they have Wifi (wee-fee, as the Spanish say). I ordered green tortellinis with white sauce, then realized I'd had them before in Barcelona. I'd visited this chain before! I read my book and ate my dinner.
I went home to get my battery and hurried back out with more layers. I was late for the start! I went back to Plaza Corredera and heard voices at the far end. There was a circle of people all around a group of girls in polka dots. They were singing with music from drums and guitars some sort of song that was obviously funny. They were also doing various motions to act out the lyrics. The crowd was enthralled.










When they finished, another group in another set of matching costumes with drums, guitars, and kazoos took over. That seemed to be the program. Each group sang at least 3 songs, but not too many, although you could tell some wanted to sing more!









When the sun went down, regular street lights went on and so did some decorative lights. There were masks and a hat with decorations popping out of the top strung between all of the light poles. More groups continued to sing.













There was also a bar temporarily set up in the square even though drinking in public is technically illegal in Spain. There were more lights heading down another exit from the square. It was clearly a big deal.












There was also a stage set up in the square with lots of seating set out. The background of the stage said somethign about Cordoba 2016. I think their plan is to become a major destination, to put themselves on the map. There was some sort of fake contest. There was a representative from Paris, one from Oslo, and one from Cordoba. Clearly Cordoba would win and it would be a great day and a great start to Carnaval. There were 3 sets of sultans and sultanas that voted on the contestants' presentations. After half of the second one, I decided it was time to go home and go online. I'd been given the Wifi code and I was ready to go.
My computer said it had Limited or no connectivity. I was not pleased. I tested it in different parts of my room and even went to the lobby. No.

I went back to Cafe and Te and their internet was also down. I decided that if I couldn't have a connection to my family, I'd have to have something else close to my heart... candy. I also decided to take tomorrow off. Yes, I'd go to Madrid, but that was it. I'd find somewhere with internet and just stay there. I wasn't going to push to do tourism. I needed a bit of a break. I needed to recoup if I was going to survive the rest of my trip.
I went back to the hostel and found it was nearly empty. It was a little scary, especially when I had to go down the hall to the bathroom. I tried the internet again, just to be sure. I really wanted it to work, but it still wouldn't. I had an interesting spy-view from my room. I could see everyone going by on the street below. My room smelled funky and I had to double-layer my PJs because it was SO cold.